Heading out of Phong Nha I was so enthusiastic and prepared to ride all day, nope! It just wasn’t happening! Halfway through the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, my front wheel vibrates so violently that I almost lost control. Mercifully I was heading up a steep incline and in low gear so able to gauge the gravity of the situation and regain control. However, I was forced to double back down the hill where I managed to flag down a local. After making a few rudimental adjustments to the wheel (knocking a few loose items with something hard) I was able to get to a rest spot. I waited for my riding partner to realize I had to turn back look for help with the motorbike. Added to the motorbike issues we’d followed the wrong road and were heading towards the Laos border. Our start to the day hadn’t really gone that great and now it was about to turn into what should have been a nightmarish ride.
It’s pretty shitty riding in the rain, loose mud and small rocks flood across the roads, streams fill up the potholes. Then the lack visibility just added to making this a suicide mission. Several hours of riding in front of us before exiting the park or reaching any accommodation, we were pretty fucked. Just then a little magic happened.
While turning a corner I spotted a man come out of the rain into the road waving at me. He was a park ranger, and his job is to keep this magnificent Jurassic wilderness accessible. He had appeared out from under an abandoned old French colonial house that stood between the trees on stilts. Luckily he had heard my motorbike due to the fact the exhaust was wrecked and made a booming rumbling noise. Actually, I didn’t mind as it kept large animals from pursuing me. Looking soggy and grumpy, we didn’t need to be asked twice to join him under the house where they had made a welcoming blazing fire. Rolled the motorbikes into the shelter, proceeded to remove our clothing draping near the fire to dry.
There where about seven rangers in this one house and a group of dogs. Two younger rangers sat with us by the fire, handing us tea and making curious conversation mostly by hand signals. A group of wild young dogs skulked about nervously, playing tug of war over meat bones and sticks, possibly a snake or two.
The guys had set up an outside dining area and makeshift kitchen; a plastic bowl to wash the dishes in, water provided by a hose that ran from the creek and food prep area.
Our young host knew we were hungry and proceeded to share what they had left over from their earlier dinner; Stream fishes, white rice, morning glory and a chili garlic sauce all cooked in large pots on the fire were all including the stay dogs huddled around.
As the light was fading and the fog wasn’t lifting they encouraged us to stay the night. Inside the house, there was no electricity just battery lamps and damp-stained walls yet we didn’t really care as we had shelter.
The sun rose early along with it our rangers. It was still raining but not quite as hard as the day before and visibility was at least now less suicidal to ride in. All loaded up we said a grateful farewell and set off. Still, about 190k to ride before we broke free of the rain and 250K later we reached Hue. Better a day late in one piece with an entertaining story to tell then all smashed up from sliding off the muddy mountain roads.
motorgirltravels 
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